23rd – Arrival in sleepy, shabby coastal town of Kep, most famous for being a colonial retreat for French elite in 1908 until Khmer Rouge rule kicked them all out. Blackened shells of once grand colonial villas still stand. Rather uninspiring beach since white sand used to be shipped in from Sihanoukville. Also a town known for its seafood, especially crabs, not that any of it was in the budget. However, found giant crab on which to take out our frustration.
25th – Bus to Kampot, a town only 20 minutes away, most famous for producing the famous pepper. Apparently before the Cambodian civil war, a Parisian restaurant wasn’t worth its salt if it didn’t have a condiment of Kampot pepper on every table. Not much to do in this river town but hired bikes and explored. Invited to a Cambodian wedding which made us feel more awkward than a pig at a hog roast. Printed forever on our minds, however, was the morning we were leaving. Nick still asleep. Helen in shower. Snake slithering up through 4-inch drain-hole. Screams from Helen forced Nick to reach for axe but once fully awake realised he did not have one. Uses water jet of butt gun instead to coax it back down drain. Drain cover firmly back on. Or so we thought. Persistent bugger repeats whole drama again two minutes later. Helen abandons shower idea. Nick hailed as hero. Just like Indiana Jones, then.
27th – Bus to coastal town of Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s premier beach resort, in search of place to rest weary bones. And continued quest of new entry into top ten beach list. Discovery of Holy Cow restaurant serving world’s best pesto tagliatelle prompted many visits over the week. Hired motorbike to explore area. After asking in every place about fixing laptop since it was broken, jackpot hit in smallest of computer shops in most random of towns. Ironically, laptop sent to our next destination, Phnom Penh, to be repaired and were told 5 days. 2 days later, with a Sunday in between, Sam Sung was returned to us looking and behaving as new, inspiring cries of ‘we’re back’!
December 2010
4th – Bus to capital, Phnom Penh. Visited Royal Palace and disappointing Silver Pagoda and subsequently spent 2 hours photographing monks on way to worship holding umbrellas, riding on back of motorcycles and tuktuks, and ones trying to avoid glare of our lens. Discovered Pizza Co. and market selling garments made in in Phnom Penh of famous brands that were not fakes (see blog). Visited S-21 prison used by Khmer Rouge to imprison and torture civilians before sending them to one of many Killing Fields, which we also visited. Read the shocking and sad Killing Fields book, which put it all in to perspective.
8th – Bus to lovely, quaint town of Siem Reap, which serves as the base camp while visiting Angkor Wat. Spent 3 days visiting every temple within perimeter of Angkor Wat. Nick ready to commit suicide on second day but being able to play Tomb Raider on third day at temple it was filmed saved him. Helen did cooking course, Nick went to gym. Visited silk farm. Also Nick’s birthday, where it was decided to spend one more day in Siem Reap in favour of being on bus. Gifts from Helen included, among other goodies, latest dvd films and Casio watch, all fake and under a fiver from the market. Bonus!
16th – Bus to Battambang for sole purpose of riding the Bamboo Train (see previous blog). Visited old Pepsi bottling factory, that hasn’t seen glass since the Khmer Rouge regime bulled their way across Cambodia, in search of old Pepsi bottle. Search futile as factory out of bounds to tourists. Will not be in hurry to visit Battambang again but thoroughly recommend Bamboo Train as something quirky and surreal you cannot do elsewhere. Shame that last place visited of a wonderful country ended in Battambang.
17th - Bus to border with Thailand at Poipet for Bangkok. Sad to leave Cambodia but Thailand adventure begins.
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